By Gary L. Wade
University of Georgia
Volume XXVIII |
It takes a lot of water to keep large beds of flowers looking
their best. To
save water, think about planting annuals in a few containers
instead of in the
ground. Done well and properly placed, containerized color can
make just as
big a splash as large, in-ground beds and require much less
water.
No one can predict when we’ll have another drought. But when
we
do, you can bet
restrictions or bans on outdoor water use will follow.
Benefits of containers
Besides being more water-thrifty than beds of annuals,
containerized color
is mobile. You can move it to where it has the greatest visual
impact, such
as the front steps or back patio. You can move it out of view,
too, or rotate
it with other containers when it doesn’t look its best.
Containerized color makes sense economically, too. It
requires fewer plants,
less amendment, less fertilizer and less mulch than large
beds.
Choosing containers
The types of containers for seasonal color are limited only
by the imagination.
Clay and plastic are the traditional choices. But
unconventional containers,
such as old iron pots, sawed-off whisky barrels or old
wheelbarrows, may fit
your decor.
Who knows? The perfect container may be in your basement or
garage. Whatever
you use, make certain it has adequate drainage.
Think large when selecting containers for summer color. Large
containers hold
more soil, so they take longer to dry out. By large, I mean
color bowls 24 to
30 inches in diameter or pots of 3 gallons and larger.
Large containers allow room for more plants, too, and for
arrangements of different
types of plants. An assortment of pots of various sizes and
shapes planted with
annuals with complimentary colors and contrasting foliage
textures makes an
artful display.
For sunny areas, plastic containers are a better choice than
natural clay.
Clay pots absorb and lose moisture through their sides as well
as their tops.
They dry out faster than plastic pots.
Light-colored containers tend to reflect light, too. And they
don’t dry out
as fast as dark ones.
Some folks in commercial landscaping paint the inside of
their clay pots with
a thin layer of roofing paint or water sealant (like that sold
for wood decks)
to keep them from absorbing water and fertilizer. This also
helps avoid the
ugly white residue caused by an accumulation of fertilizer
salts on the outside
of the pot.
Don’t forget the saucers when buying containers. These act as
a reservoir for
holding moisture and help extend the time between watering.
They prevent messes
on patios and porches, too.
However, if you use a saucer, remove it once a month and
water the container
thoroughly to leach accumulated fertilizer salts from the
growing media. Otherwise,
a salt buildup from the fertilizer can damage roots.
Soil is the key
The key to a successful color container is the soil mix. Shop
around for a
commercial-grade growing mix — one that’s lightweight and has
good drainage.
If the bag is as heavy as topsoil or composted cow manure,
don’t buy it. A heavy
mix is likely to be poorly drained.
Before you plant summer color in containers, incorporate a
slow-release fertilizer,
such as Osmocote, into the top 6 inches of the mix. Look for
one with an 8-
to 9-month release duration, so nutrients will be available
from spring to fall.
Besides slow-release fertilizer, some annuals, such as salvia
and petunias,
will benefit from a liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
The final step is to mulch the container, just as you would a
flower bed. Putting
2 to 3 inches of pine straw, mininuggets or shredded hardwood
mulch on the surface
will help prevent water loss from the container, so you won’t
have to water
as often.
