Garden compost system made of wood, with the left side full of scrap and leaves and the right side with fully composted material that is less full after decomposing.

Share

Garden compost system made of wood, with the left side full of scrap and leaves and the right side with fully composted material that is less full after decomposing.
Composting is a fun way to transform food and yard scraps into a useful garden amendment. With a few expert tips and a willingness to experiment, anyone can start a successful compost system.

Getting started can feel overwhelming at first, but a few simple habits can make a big difference in keeping your compost pile healthy and manageable.

To help beginners get started with confidence, we turned to composting guidance from the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension expert resource “Composting Basics and Considerations for Growers and Landscapers,” developed by faculty in the College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences (CAES), with pro tips from Agriculture and Natural Resources Extension Agent Josh Fuder.

Meet the Experts

Bethany A Harris, Center for Urban Agriculture Director

Heather Kirk Ballard, Assistant Professor – Sustainable Urban Landscapes

Josh Fuder, Agriculture and Natural Resources agent for UGA Cooperative Extension in Cherokee County

Laura Ney, Agriculture and Natural Resources agent for UGA Cooperative Extension in Athens-Clarke County

Close up of various leaves and other plant materials demonstrating a balance of brown, carbon-rich compost inputs to green, nitrogen-rich inputs.
Use two to three parts brown, carbon-rich materials for every one part green, nitrogen-rich materials to achieve the proper balance of compost inputs.

A successful compost pile depends on the right mix of carbon-rich “browns” and nitrogen-rich “greens.” Browns include dry leaves, cardboard and aged wood chips, while greens include grass clippings, coffee grounds and fruit and vegetable scraps.

A proper moisture level is critical for healthy decomposition. Compost that is too dry can slow microbial activity and prevent breakdown. Alternatively, compost that is too wet can become anaerobic, create unpleasant odors and become sludge-like. A properly managed pile should feel damp, like a wrung-out sponge. Adding the correct ratio of browns and greens, and adding water if necessary, will help keep your pile at the right moisture level for proper microbial breakdown.

A contained compost pile within wood pallets, while someone stands on the right-side and uses a pitchfork to turn the pile.
Turning a compost pile with a pitchfork or specialized composting tool helps rotate material from the core to the outer edges, promoting more even decomposition.

Composting is an aerobic process, meaning that microorganisms need oxygen to break down materials efficiently. Turning the pile every one to three weeks helps improve airflow, speed decomposition and reduce odors. You’ll want to turn the contents from the core to the outside of the pile, and vice versa.

Large branches, thick stems and bulky materials decompose slowly. Chopping or shredding materials into smaller pieces increases surface area and helps microorganisms work more efficiently.

It’s also important not to add foods that have high fat content, especially animal-based food scraps, as they have a tendency to rot rather than decompose and attract pests to your compost pile. 

A partially decomposed compost pile with a thermometer sticking out of the center of the pile.
Monitoring the temperature of a compost pile can help gardeners make informed decisions about aeration, material inputs, and where the pile is in the decomposition process.

Healthy compost piles generate heat as microorganisms break down organic matter. The ideal temperature range for composting varies with the unique phases your pile undergoes during decomposition.

In the first week, make sure it’s steadily heating up. The active “hot” phase should maintain temperatures between 131 and 160 degrees Fahrenheit. During this phase, check the temperature every two to three days. If the temperature begins dropping, it may signal that it’s time to turn your pile. Once your pile begins cooling to no more than 10 degrees above ambient air temperatures, even when you turn it, you’ve entered the curing or maturing phase.

Pro tip: Fuder suggests purchasing a good compost thermometer that can get deep into the compost pile for a more accurate temperature read.

Take time to choose a good composting location. Compost piles should be placed in areas protected from flooding and rainwater runoff and should remain accessible year-round for maintenance. Locations near a water source can help if additional water is needed to maintain proper moisture levels.

Full shade and full sun have benefits and drawbacks. Full sun will help raise temperatures for faster decomposition but can overheat or dry out your pile more quickly. Full shade can help keep your pile from drying out but can also slow down decomposition. The most important thing is to check on your pile and make adjustments as necessary.

Wooden pallets create a three-bin compost system where food and yard scraps are in various stages of decomposition.
A three-bin compost system is an organized setup that allows you to continually add fresh kitchen and garden scraps to one bin while mature compost breaks down and cures in the others.

Choosing a composting method can be a matter of trial and error and ultimately comes down to your location, the quantity of input material, and your time-investment preferences. Two- or three-bin rotation systems, compost tumblers and vermicomposting  — the process of using worms to break down organic waste into nutrient-rich worm castings — all offer different benefits.

Pro tip: Fuder recommends doing some preliminary research using trusted sources, like UGA Extension composting resources, and connecting with your county Extension agent for one-on-one support as you get started.

Good composting takes time. Some composting methods can produce finished compost in a few months, while others can take a year or longer. Healthy, finished compost should appear dark and crumbly and have an earthy smell, with few recognizable food scraps remaining.